Nkwo: Afro-bohemian Chic

FASHION : Snapshot

Nkwo Onwuka is the type of woman who often has to disappoint passersbys probing her as to the origins of her clothes. Because rather than point to a high street store or have them jot down the name of an obscure brand, she has to break it to them that it’s a one-of-a-kind piece she made in her studio. Even before the London-based designer set up her label in 2007, she has been expressing herself through fashion. And if you had her talent, you would understand why.

Raised in Nigeria and the United Kingdom, with a stint in New York, the creative designer always was drawn to fashion, due to her mother who sews and her infatuation with dolls. Onwuka, however. studied psychology before launching her Afro-bohemian chic label to much acclaim. Her many accolades include the Phoenix Award at Kulture2Couture 2007, which in association with the Mayor of London’s Office and the V&A, granted her a place at the Caribbean Fashion Week the same year. Onwuka also has showcased her designs at 2009 Arise Africa Fashion Week in Johannesburg, where she exhibited her “Ego Trip Collection.” And in April, she will partake in the Dublin African Fashion Weekend.

Specializing in ready-to-wear, Onwuka’s creations take a page from the carefree vibe of the 1960s and ‘70s and amplify the mood with African influences, textures and colors. Or as she best describes it, “a bit free spirited, a bit nomadic, totally African.”

“I like read- to-wear, as you don’t need to know me to buy my clothes,“ Onwuka says. “I find it easier that way. I can do other things and my business isn’t fully dependent.”

From jumpsuits from Nigerian Ankara, to bright dresses fashioned from layers of tulle with waistline detailing using African prints to maxi dresses with hoods, to tulip skirts and exquisite drapery in bold prints, past collections have shown that she is capable of thinking outside the box.

It is this creativity that garnered Onwuka attention from buyers and other insiders. She has sold her pieces on renowned online shop asos.com, alongside having her designs stocked at various independent stores in Europe and West Africa. And recently, Shingai Shoniwa, lead singer of the UK indie-rock band Noisettes, wore several of her designs in the current issue of New African Woman.

Pleased with all the recent happenings, Onwuka remains focused on the future with many plans, including dreams of foraying into menswear, bridal wear and accessories. She currently is hard at work at new diffusion range, titled AFROMANIA. She also is dedicated to keeping her business ethical and is very proud of her heritage.

“It’s about taking Africa to the future, take it forward,“ Onwuka says.

And while she admires the aesthetics of many designers, such as Biba, the key to understanding Onwuka’s work and bold designs is to know that she marches to the beat of her own drum.

“I love the whole vibe,“ Onwuka says. “I love the excitement people still have for her clothes ... [but] I am my own muse.”

For more information, visit www.nkwo.co.uk.

(Photo credits: Suby and Sinem Photography)

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