Shirley Ephraim: Bold, Feminine Hand-crocheted Jewelry
When it comes to jewelry, we often harbor traditional notions as to fit, texture and composition. From her hand-distressed chain lariat to the organic crocheted black pearl earrings, Nigerian-born and New York-based conceptual jewelry and fashion designer Shirley Ephraim makes beautifully hand-crocheted jewelry.
When it comes to jewelry, we often harbor traditional notions as to fit, texture and composition. From her hand-distressed chain lariat to the organic crocheted black pearl earrings, Nigerian-born and New York-based conceptual jewelry and fashion designer Shirley Ephraim makes beautifully hand-crocheted jewelry. Inspired by indigenous cultures, traditional handicrafts and nature, the designer uses materials, such as organic cotton and naturally hand-dyed silk yarns. The Parsons School of Design graduate has worked in the luxury industry for Donna Karan Collection and has designed original crochet jewelry pieces for Oscar-nominated “The Visitor” and “DARE.“ Her own exclusive brand, KIFE Collection, arrives in store this spring. inCOLOR speaks to the designer about her designs.
inCOLOR: How would you describe your design aesthetics?
Shirley Ephraim:Textured, handcrafted, detailed, and organically shaped.
inCOLOR: Gone are the days when knitting and crocheting were associated with grandmothers in rocking chairs, and such creative endeavors are now considered a hip past time. What do you think of this revival taking place in the U.S.?
Shirley Ephraim: My jewelry is not driven by trends. Rather, it is timeless. KIFE Collection is a luxury brand deeply rooted in and inspired by ancient handweaving and lacemaking techniques. As a designer and jewelry artisan, my handmade work speaks to an exclusive market. I intricately weave, sculpt, and shape each thread and fiber into a breathtaking piece of jewelry.
inCOLOR: Where do you find inspiration for your work?
Shirley Ephraim: In nature, world travel, indigenous cultures, traditional handicrafts, and modern architecture. On a recent trip to Brazil, I became completely immersed in the culture, the language, and the land.
inCOLOR: Incorporating crochet techniques into jewelry is quite nontraditional. What lead you to this specialize in this practice?
Shirley Ephraim: My work is about exploring elements of my tradition and heritage and sharing this with the world through my jewelry. I had the privilege of spending the holidays in my father’s village during my childhood. There was so much craftsmanship and highly skilled artistry going on with the local artisans there. With some of these techniques going back as far as 40,000 years. Whatever the people needed was woven and embroidered from fibers derived directly from the earth. Because of the time, skill, and rare resources used to create these items, they were mostly used only during ceremonies and were considered luxuries depicting a person’s social status. There is also a Spanish lineage on my mother’s side of the family (South American). We grew up around a lot of intricate filet lace in our home.
inCOLOR: Your work is delicate and at the same time quite intricate. What type of woman do you design for?
Shirley Ephraim:My jewelry is created with a certain feminine sensibility in mind. The pieces are bold yet delicate at the same time. There is an effortless sophistication and complexity in the work. A lot of women can relate to that.
inCOLOR: What lead you to your current profession?
Shirley Ephraim: I wore a pair of my own earrings to an interview for an internship at the fashion house of Donna Karan. The design director immediately noticed and complimented my jewelry, and I was placed into the collection atelier where I worked directly with Donna herself and the design team. Although I had been creating jewelry from a very young age, that was really the defining moment. The success of my work in “The Visitor” and its 2009 Academy Award nomination has also played an instrumental role in the launch of my jewelry brand.
inCOLOR: Which contemporary designers do you admire?
Shirley Ephraim: I admire what a lot of other designers are doing in the international jewelry market: constantly pushing the envelope with innovative and unusual materials.
inCOLOR: You are also a dancer and performer alongside being a designer. Which medium do you prefer as a means of expression?
Shirley Ephraim: For me, each medium has always informed and inspired the other.
inCOLOR: Where do you see your brand in 10 years?
Shirley Ephraim: For KIFE Collection to have an increased presence in the global market. As an entrepreneur, my desire is to continue to grow my business and become more profitable, without having to sacrifice the artistry and quality of the brand.
inCOLOR: You have made jewelry for feature films, including “DARE.“ How does this compare to designing you own individual collection?
Shirley Ephraim:With film, it is a collaborative process. You are working with both the director and the costume designer’s vision. Then, there is the character—who they are, what they do, their lives, their desires. It’s very specific. When I was studying fashion design at Parsons in New York City, we were always designing for a muse or customer. Not one person. That’s the difference—this idea of customization, borrowing from Parisian Haute couture.
inCOLOR: What do you love the most about designing?
Shirley Ephraim:The freedom to express myself and do what I love.
For more information, visit www.shirleyephraim.com and www.kifecollection.com.
