Untold Fashion Show
Established in 2007, Untold is an organization which creates "opportunities where non exist and, through this, brings to light the plight of creatives across a wealth and breadth of disciplines". Its seasonal off-schedule London Fashion Week catwalk show was held on Feb. 22 at Battersea Art Center, where eight emerging designers, representing various ethnicities, showcased their Autumn/Winter 2010 collection. inCOLOR was there to cover the event.
London Fashion Week is built on stories—be it the narratives we see knitted, stitched or hemmed down the runway conveying standpoints on topics ranging from global warming to English gardens; or off the stage where fashion insiders strut around from show to show in sky-high Nicolas Kirkwood heels, photographers bend over backwards for the perfect shot and models dance the night away after a hard day’s work. But unfortunately some yarns never quite make it out of the ateliers, not for the lack of strength but for the dearth of sufficient platforms.
Untold is a collective established in 2007 by Maame Baryeh, the designer behind Maame Baryeh London. An organization that offers talented emerging UK designers a platform to vocalize their perspectives, the group’s mission, as Baryeh explains, is to “create opportunities where none exist and, through this, bring to light the plight of creatives across a wealth and breadth of disciplines.” It is comprised of a seasonal off-schedule London Fashion Week catwalk show and a static exhibition, art, textiles, accessories, photography and plenty more. Among the many talented creatives behind the endeavor are art director Heather Falconer, Lauraine Bailey, who serves as creative director, and Ola Shobowale, who sits chairs the Management Committee. This year’s fashion week show was held on Feb. 22 at Battersea Art Center in West London.
At around 7.30 p.m. the audience had quieted down with pen and paper in hand and cameras placed eagerly on laps. With the center’s beautiful organs as the backdrop, the runway welcomed Gevorgian, a luxurious avant-garde brand specializing in women’s wear and women’s footwear as its first show. Launched this year by Armenian designer Diane Gevorgian, the collection was titled “If Looks Could Kill.” And with fitted and structured tailoring, gold detailing around exaggerated shoulders and hems, ruffled details around hiplines, not to mention a collection of knee-length boots with killer stilettos, the collection as a whole was definitely worthy of a femme fetale.
Another innovative women’s wear label showcased was Bestow Elan. Contemporary in style, the designer behind the brand is Erzumah Ackerson, who drapes with jerseys as well as she fashions structured tailored pieces, all while drawing influences from her heritage. Her long, pink jersey dress with a silver V-neck back opening and drapery around the feet was only second to a simple black jersey dress with details framing an open back.
Next off was Desiderata. Latin for desired things, the brand is the brainchild of Tarell McIntosh, who won the Fashion Diversity 2009 Award and has interned for the likes of Vivienne Westwood. His collection featured designs for men, including high-waisted light tweed pants, and skirt-like numbers with colorful waistbands that reminded one of an Indian summer.
Menswear was also on the mind of Baryeh, who under Ma:LE showcased a collection with impeccable, creative pattern cutting that also highlighted a talent for knitwear. Showstoppers included a structured cropped jacket with ruffled back details and a cropped knit throw with oversized wooden buttons.
Mononoko and Chichia London let their fabrics do the talking.
Mononoko, designed by Mary Mononokpono, featured reclaimed vintage fabrics with eco-friendly and ethically sourced fabrics, including Nigerian-embossed Ankara, recycled wool, chiffon and linen and soy jersey, to give her rendition of Alice’s adventure in Wonderland.
Chichia London was established in 2007 and is headed by designer Christine Mhando, who works predominately with KHANGA, a traditional East African cotton printed fabric. The collection infused the tropical heat of Dar Es Salaa with western shapes, from tunics and off the shoulder tops to high-waisted shorts and knee-length dresses with a pinched waist.
Color was central to Chrissie Fizz Designs’ show, which drew inspiration from the ‘80s and featured orange high-waisted shorts paired with white quarter-length sleeved shirts. A definite highlight was a V-neck floral print dress with pockets.
And while other designers focused on ready-to-wear, Pia Love looked at lingerie.
“I want to make lingerie that gets you into role playing and having fun in the bedroom,” she said.
Inspired by the music of Fela Kuti, the lingerie collection featured beautiful two pieces alongside belly-baring one pieces, animal prints and fur details.
The perfect ending to the night was Lana Luk’s whimsical collection where the use of fur, stripes, and a somber palette made for a structured look, which was softened with the models totting balloons as accessories.
Whether there is a happy ending for all these stories is yet to be seen, and besides the point as their perspectives had a chance to be narrated, thanks to Untold.
For more information, visit:
http://www.un-told.co.uk/
http://cfdesiderataclothing.yolasite.com
http://www.chrissiefizz.com/
http://www.bestowelan.com/
http://www.lanaart.co.uk/
Images courtesy of press@un-told.co.uk
